Asphalt Repair That Doesn't Come Back Next Year
Crack fill, pothole patching, infrared repair, and mill-and-overlay across Utah's Wasatch Front and Bear Lake. Fix what you've got — keep what you've already paid for.
Repair vs. replace — what to do when
Most asphalt damage we look at doesn't need a full replacement. Cracks, potholes, sunken areas, and surface raveling can usually be addressed for 10–25% of the cost of a repave — as long as the base is still solid. The rule of thumb: if the base supports it, repair it. If the base is failing, repair becomes a stopgap and replacement becomes the smarter move.
What we do here isn't slap-a-cold-patch-in-the-hole work. We diagnose the cause (water intrusion? base failure? freeze-thaw?), pick the repair method that addresses the cause, and warranty the result. The wrong repair method comes back in a year. The right one buys you 5–10 more years of surface life.
Crack fill
Hot-pour rubberized crack fill on every linear crack wider than ⅛ inch. We route or clean the crack first so the sealer actually bonds. Filled cracks block water from getting into the base, which is where freeze-thaw damage starts.
Patching & skin patches
For potholes, alligator cracking, and failed surface areas, we cut clean edges, dig down to a sound base, and place new hot-mix to spec. Skin patches sit on top of an existing surface; full-depth patches replace the failed section to base. We use the method the damage actually calls for.
Infrared repair
For smaller surface defects — birdbaths, surface unevenness, isolated alligator areas — infrared heats the existing asphalt, re-blends in new mix, and rolls a seamless repair. No cold joint, no patch line. It's the best small-area repair method when conditions are right.
Mill-and-overlay
For larger surfaces that are tired but base-solid, milling off the top 1.5–2 inches and overlaying with fresh asphalt restores the surface without the cost of full replacement. Buys 8–15 years on the right candidate surface.
Pick the right fix for the right damage
Crack fill is not a patch. A patch is not an overlay. We don't oversell the method — we use what the damage needs.
Residential
- Driveway cracks & alligator areas
- Potholes & sunken sections
- Edge failure & gutter ties
- Surface raveling & loose aggregate
- Tree-root upheaval areas
- Cabin-road washout & rut repair
Commercial
- Parking lot pothole & pavement failure
- Lot-wide crack fill maintenance programs
- Trip-hazard removal & ADA grinding
- Loading dock & lane wear repair
- Mill-and-overlay for tired but base-solid lots
- Emergency pothole response for property managers
Every repair job includes all of this
The fix is only as good as the prep. We don't pour fresh mix over old mess.
Site assessment
We walk the surface, photograph each damage area, and identify the root cause — base failure, water intrusion, age, or impact.
Method selection
Crack fill vs. patch vs. infrared vs. overlay. We pick the method based on damage type and base condition, not on what's quickest.
Crack routing & cleaning
Cracks get routed (widened to a clean V) and blown out so the sealer bonds to clean edges, not dust.
Sawcut & remove
Patch areas get sawcut to clean rectangular boundaries, removed to base, and the base evaluated before new mix goes in.
Base evaluation & repair
If the base under a patch is weak, we fix it before we replace the surface. Patching over bad base is the most common repair failure.
Hot-mix placement & compaction
Tack coat on cut edges, hot-mix placed and compacted to spec. Skin patches get feathered edges, full-depth patches get sealed joints.
Surface sealing of joints
Every patch perimeter gets sealed — that joint is the most common failure point and we don't leave it raw.
Written warranty
Repair-specific warranty terms in writing, with method, materials, and locations documented.
Most repairs take less than a day
Crack-fill rounds, patch days, and full overlays each have their own timeline — but the workflow is the same.
Free on-site assessment
We measure, photograph, and diagnose every damage area. You get a written quote with method and price per repair.
Method & schedule
You approve the methods. We schedule on the next dry-weather window above 50°F.
Repair day
Crack routing, sawcutting, hot-mix placement, compaction, joint sealing. Foreman on site the whole time.
Walk-through & warranty
We walk the work with you, deliver written warranty terms, and give cure-time guidance before you drive on it.
Catch damage before water gets in
Most asphalt failure in Utah follows the same chain: a small crack forms, water gets into it, that water freezes overnight and expands ~9% in volume, the crack widens, more water gets in, and within two or three freeze-thaw cycles you've got a pothole instead of a hairline. The point of repair work isn't to make the surface look new — it's to break that chain before it costs you a full replacement.
That's why we push commercial customers onto a recurring crack-fill schedule and why we'll often quote a "fix it now" job alongside the "rebuild it eventually" job. Repair is the cheap part of asphalt ownership. Replacement is the expensive part. The repair money you spend in years 5, 10, and 15 is what keeps replacement out of years 20 and 25.
Asphalt repair questions, answered straight
How much does asphalt repair cost?
Crack fill runs roughly $1.00–$3.00 per linear foot. Skin patches and pothole patches start around $200–$500 per repair area depending on size and depth. Mill-and-overlay runs $1.50–$3.50 per square foot. Mobilization is built into smaller jobs, which is why combining repairs on one visit usually lowers per-job cost.
Should I repair my asphalt or replace it?
If the base is solid and most of the surface is in good shape, repair almost always wins on cost. If you're seeing widespread alligator cracking, multiple sinking spots, or the surface fails when you push on it, the base is compromised and repair becomes a stopgap. We give honest assessments on the estimate visit — even when the honest answer is "don't pay us to repair this, replace it."
Will sealcoating fix the cracks?
No. Sealcoat is a thin coating — it can't bridge any crack wider than a hair. Real cracks need hot-pour rubberized crack fill placed in the crack first, and sealcoat over the top of that. Sealing over an unfilled crack just hides the problem; water still gets in and the crack still grows.
What's the difference between a patch and an overlay?
A patch is a localized fix — we replace a specific failed area (potholes, alligator spots, edge failures) and feather the new material into the surrounding asphalt. An overlay covers a much larger area, usually after milling off the top 1.5–2 inches of the old surface. Patches are for isolated damage; overlays are for tired-but-base-solid lots.
How long do asphalt repairs last?
Well-installed crack fill typically lasts 3–5 years before needing re-fill. A properly installed patch can last 5–10+ years if the base is sound. Mill-and-overlay extends surface life by 8–15 years. The biggest variable is base condition — if the underlying base is failing, no surface repair lasts long.
Do you charge a mobilization fee for small jobs?
Smaller jobs do have a minimum to cover equipment and crew time. The most cost-effective way to do small repairs is to bundle them — schedule a "repair day" that combines crack fill, a few patches, and any other small fixes on the same visit. We'll tell you on the estimate how that math works for your property.
What time of year is best for asphalt repairs?
Hot-mix patching and overlays need ambient and ground temperatures above ~50°F, so May–October is the prime window. Crack fill has a slightly wider window — we can do it well into fall as long as the surface is dry. Emergency cold patches for safety issues (potholes in active drive lanes) can be done year-round; they just won't last as long as a hot-mix permanent fix.
Fix the small stuff before it gets expensive
Free on-site repair assessment. Photographed damage, written quote, method recommendations. We'll tell you what needs fixing now and what can wait.