Sealcoating That Actually Protects Your Asphalt
Commercial-grade sealer applications across Utah's Wasatch Front and Bear Lake. The single most cost-effective thing you can do to extend the life of the asphalt you already paid for.
Sealcoat is asphalt insurance
Asphalt is a petroleum product. From the day it's laid, UV light, oxygen, water, and chemicals (gas, oil, road salt) start breaking down its binders. Without protection, that breakdown shows up as graying, raveling, and hairline cracks — usually within five to seven years.
Sealcoat is a coal-tar or asphalt-emulsion barrier that replaces the binder UV light has already stripped, refills surface pores, and blocks water from getting into the asphalt or the base underneath it. A good sealcoat program will roughly double the life of a paved surface — and at maybe 1/15th the cost of a repave.
Residential driveways
Most driveways should be sealcoated every 2–3 years. We do single drives, full estates, long Bear Lake cabin driveways, and HOA-wide reseal projects. The work is fast (most driveways are done in under a day) and the difference is visible: fresh black, sealed surface that water beads off.
Commercial parking lots
Commercial sealcoating is a maintenance program, not a one-time fix. We schedule lots on a 2–3 year rotation and coordinate the work around your operating hours — usually weekends or overnight blocks — so customers and employees never lose access during the day.
Pre-sealcoat repair work
A sealcoat over crumbling asphalt is just lipstick. We always assess for crack fill, oil-spot treatment, and patching needs before we quote a seal — and if your surface really needs repair work first, we'll tell you, even if it means we end up doing less seal work this year.
Built around the way you use the surface
Different surfaces, different prep, different coat counts. We don't run a one-size sealcoat job.
Residential
- Single-family driveways
- HOA & private community drives
- Long cabin access drives (Bear Lake, Garden City)
- Backyard sport courts & basketball pads
- Townhome & multi-family driveways
- Detached garage & shop pads
Commercial
- Retail & office parking lots
- Multi-family apartment lots
- Self-storage lanes & staging areas
- Church, school & warehouse lots
- Restaurant & service-business lots
- Property management portfolios (volume pricing)
Every sealcoat job includes all of this
Prep is the difference between a sealcoat that lasts and one that flakes off in six months.
Surface assessment
We walk the surface and document any cracks, alligator areas, oil spots, or weak spots that need addressing before sealer goes down.
Deep clean & sweep
Power brooms, blowers, and where needed, pressure washing. Dust and debris are sealcoat's biggest enemies — we strip the surface clean first.
Crack fill
Hot-pour rubberized crack fill on any opening bigger than ⅛ inch. Sealcoat won't bridge a crack — the crack fill does.
Oil-spot primer
Petroleum-based stains rejection-coat sealer. We spot-prime every oil mark on the surface so the coating bonds across the whole lot.
Edge cutting
Clean cut lines along curbs, gutters, garage doors, and walkways. Sharp edges, no overspray on concrete or landscaping.
Two-coat application
Spray or squeegee depending on surface — always two coats, with cure time between. One coat is a shortcut, not a sealcoat.
Cure barriers
Cones, signage, and barricades while the coating cures. We control the site so the work doesn't get walked or driven on too early.
Written warranty
Every job gets a written warranty with the spec, square footage, coat count, and material info documented.
Most sealcoats are a one-day job
Quote to cure barrier — most residential drives and small lots go in a single day.
Free on-site estimate
We measure, walk the surface, and flag any prep work needed. Written quote in 24–48 hours.
Schedule the weather window
We need 24–48 hours of dry weather above 50°F for a real cure. We don't pour into a rain forecast.
Clean, prep & seal
Cleaning, crack fill, oil-spot primer, edge cutting, then two coats with the right cure time between.
Barriers & walk-through
Site closed off until cure, walk-through with you on completion, written warranty delivered.
Why Utah asphalt needs sealcoat more, not less
Utah is one of the hardest sealcoat environments in the country. We get heavy UV at altitude, low humidity (which accelerates oxidation), road salt and de-icer in winter, and a freeze-thaw cycle that hammers any unsealed surface. Bear Lake elevation gets all of that, plus colder lows and a shorter install window. National-chain "annual maintenance" plans designed for milder climates simply don't keep up.
Our default rotation in northern Utah is every 2–3 years, with the lighter end of that range for high-elevation and high-traffic surfaces. We won't push you to seal on a faster cycle than your asphalt actually needs — but we won't let a customer skip sealing for five-plus years either, because at that point we're looking at repair work instead of maintenance.
Sealcoating questions, answered straight
How much does sealcoating cost in Utah?
Most residential driveways run $0.15–$0.30 per square foot, and commercial lots run $0.10–$0.22 per square foot at scale. The variables are condition, prep work needed (crack fill, oil spots), number of coats, and whether striping needs to be redone after. Free written estimates with every job.
How often should asphalt be sealcoated?
Most surfaces should be sealed every 2–3 years. High-traffic commercial lots and Bear Lake elevation driveways may need it closer to every 2 years. Residential driveways with light use can sometimes stretch to 3. The key is sealing before the asphalt starts oxidizing and graying — once that happens, sealcoat is no longer fully restoring the surface.
When should I sealcoat newly paved asphalt?
Wait 6–12 months after the install before the first sealcoat. New asphalt needs to off-gas its volatile oils, and sealing too early can trap them and weaken the bond. Once that window is past, schedule the first sealcoat — it's the single biggest move you can make to add years to a fresh install.
How long does sealcoat take to cure?
Foot traffic is fine after 4–8 hours in good weather. Light vehicles can drive on it in 24 hours. We recommend a full 48 hours before normal use, and 72 hours before parking heavy trucks or RVs on it. Cool, humid weather extends the cure window slightly.
Will sealcoat fix the cracks in my driveway?
Not by itself. Sealcoat is a thin coating — it can't bridge a crack wider than a hair. That's why we crack-fill before we seal, on every job that needs it. If a surface has heavy alligator cracking, sealcoat won't save it; at that point we'll talk about patching or partial replacement instead.
What kind of sealer do you use?
We use commercial-grade asphalt-emulsion and refined-tar sealers depending on the application and local regulations. We don't use the watered-down homeowner sealers you'll find at big-box stores. Material specs are documented on your warranty paperwork.
Can you work around our business hours?
Yes. Most commercial sealcoat work happens overnight, on weekends, or in scheduled half-lot phases so customers and staff never lose access during operating hours. Property management portfolios get a recurring schedule that we plan months in advance.
Protect what's already in the ground
Free on-site sealcoat estimate. We'll measure, flag any prep, and give you a written quote. Maintenance pricing for property managers.